MRPC NEWS

What does it mean to be a member at the Medford Rifle and Pistol Club ?

 

It means a commitment to safety and taking the responsibility to ensure

that yourself and others around you are safe at all times!

 

Lately, MRPC’s Security Director has seen a marked increase in unsafe actions at the club.

 

*On the security cameras, we see members who wander down range to change targets while others are shooting. 

Both parties are at fault. 

 

*The shooting benches are not tables at a restaurant that you can sit around to have a nice conversations.   With guns on the benches, loaded or not, members should be on the same side of the table at all times.  If you want to talk, pack up the guns and go into the entry room for a conversation.  Remember, gun muzzles get pointed where they don’t belong very quickly.

 

*Which is the third most common safety mistake being made….Shooters are pointing the muzzles of their firearm in all directions.   Up, Down, Sideways, Backwards; even at times pointing them at other shooters.  The only safe direction to

point a firearm at MRPC, whether pistol or rifle, is at the bullet trap!

 

This is not a Joke!  It is a matter of life and death !

 

As of 06-01-2018

If you are observed not being safe,

your range privilege will be curtailed.

The number of warnings being sent out is being reduced!  You will be locked out for unsafe gun handling !

 

 

 

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Jefferson State Shooting Association

30th Annual Bowling Pin Shoot

May 20, 2018  This Sunday

http://www.sportsparkkeno.org/pages/directions.html

 

Greetings,

Please note that the match will start at 9:30, with sign ups at 8:45. Here’s the program for the match to answer questions about details.

See you at the range!

Brent

 

 

There will be 4 handgun classes: Single Action Revolver, Revolver, Semi-auto, and Open Class.

 

Single action class is for single action only revolvers and will be allowed to use a back-up gun. The back-up gun will be of the same type and caliber as the primary gun. Both guns will be loaded to capacity with the hammers left in the loading position. The back-up gun will be laid on the table in front of the shooter with the barrel pointed down range.

 

Revolver class is for any revolver that has post and notch sights and no porting.  Cylinders that hold more than six rounds will only be loaded with six rounds initially to start each round. Reloading may use all chambers. PLEASE LOAD ANY SPEEDLOADERS BEFORE COMING TO THE TABLE.

 

Semi-auto class can be any pistol that has post and notch sights and no porting.  No magazine size or capacity limit. PLEASE HAVE YOUR MAGAZINES LOADED WHEN YOU COME TO THE TABLE.

 

Open class is for guns with porting and/or optic sights.  Any handgun may be used in open class. PLEASE HAVE YOUR MAGAZINES LOADED WHEN YOU COME TO THE TABLE.

 

 

All shooters are unclassified and shoot together. There will be prizes awarded in all 4 classes plus Top Overall, Fastest Single Run, Top Lady, and Top Junior (under 18).  Start Position will be a “Low Ready” with muzzle on the table & gun on safe, if possible.

 

 

After the handgun prizes have been awarded, we will run 2 shotgun classes: Pumps and Semi-Auto. AMMO WILL BE RESTRICTED TO SLUGS OR ANY SIZE BUCKSHOT. DUE TO DANGER OF RICHOCHETS, NO BIRDSHOT!  USE OF BIRDSHOT WILL RESULT IN DISQUALIFICATION!

 

All shooters will be timed from the start signal until the last pin hits the ground.  All shooters will shoot two runs in each class entered (total of 10 pins). Times will be added together. Fastest total time wins. Distance will be 25 feet. In the shotgun event, more than half the pin must leave the table. NO backup guns except as noted above. Unlimited reloading. A one minute time limit in all classes. Match officials and timers will be allowed to shoot in all classes.

 

8:30am: Registration starts. Prizes available for your review.

9:15am: Shooters’ meeting.

9:30am: Shooting starts with the Single Action Class. 

10:30am: (Approx.) Revolver Class. 

11:30am: (Approx.) Stock Auto Class.

12:30pm: (Approx.) Open Class. You can shoot any stock revolver, stock auto, or custom handgun in this class.

1:30pm: (Approx.) Prizes awarded for the handgun events. You must be present or make arrangements for someone else to pick your prizes.

2:30pm: (Approx.) The Shotgun event, with prizes awarded after the shooting.

 

Entry: $10 per class, $25 for three handgun classes, $30 for all 4 handgun classes.  $10 per shotgun class.

 

For more information contact Brent Glidden @ 541-892-7156 or email linklightning@msn.com.         

 

Our Bowling Pin Match continues to be a great success due largely to the generous support of these sponsors.  Please support them and send them a thank you note for the prizes you won today.

 

This year, our major sponsors for our match were

 Hogue Grips

Montana Gold Bullets

Give them thanks, buy their excellent products, find out more about them, and tell all your sporting friends about these organizations’ generous support of your local shooting sports!

 

Additional Match Sponsors

  • Bill’s Upholstery
  • Bi-Mart
  • Burris Optics
  • Coast Cutlery Co.
  • DeCot Hy-Wyd Sport Glasses, Inc.
  • Dick Kramer Studios
  • Forster Products
  • Jefferson State Shooting Association
  • Lee Precision, Inc.
  • Midway USA
  • Redding Reloading Equipment
  • Safariland
  • Starline

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MRPC Practical Pistol Shooters

 

Topic:  Thursday Evening Practices At the Sports Park Reserve Ranges

 

A reminder that when you first arrive,

you need to find the person with the sign-in & waiver clipboard.

Sign-in and hand him your $1 range fee.

 

We need to stay current with this or we could lose our use of the range

 

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Concealed-Carry Basics: Tips From a Professional

by Jeff Gonzales – Tuesday, May 15, 2018

 

Those new to concealed carry can find themselves overwhelmed. The industry has exploded over the past few decades, and rightfully so, as folks take ownership of their own safety. It is a personal responsibility, but it is also a learned skill. The first challenge for those new to concealed carry is understanding a three-tiered approach toward carrying concealed. Breaking the three tiers down into the base, lower- and upper-body garments gives structure to a rather nebulous subject.

When I first started carrying concealed, I didn’t know what I was doing. I had received countless hours of firearm- and tactics-related training, but nothing in the sense of how to carry concealed. I was not only on my own, but I was thrown into the deep end of a shark-infested pool wearing a meat suit to perform my duties. I wasn’t afforded the opportunity to make mistakes—I had to get it right the first time and every time thereafter. It forced me to think carefully about not only what I was carrying, but also how I dressed.

I am excited to see so many people take a more-vested interest in their personal safety. I honestly don’t question their reasons. My job is to prepare them for what will be the worst day of their lives in the best way possible. I have taken an active interest in understanding their “why,” as it helps me do my job of better educating them. I also have to understand the various barriers to entry that may keep them from learning.

 


The two most common are fear of the unknown and fear of not knowing. While these two items may seem similar, they are vastly different. Fear of the unknown is simple—it is not knowing what to expect. Not knowing what to expect puts people in a defensive posture at times, standoffish and not open to change. The best piece of advice I can share is you are not alone. Everyone has been there and what I love about this community is how eager folks are to help. The fear of not knowing is more challenging. This is being afraid to look the fool, to not know what you are doing. Again, you are human and this is normal. My best piece of advice is to keep your eye on the prize. If you are doing this for a reason, stay focused on that reason. Everyone has to start somewhere; remember that.

I spend a lot of time answering questions. A common question I get is what firearm is best for the person in question to carry. We are blessed with many options, but that, too, is a curse. What I do is give you criteria, not what I carry. I give you the “why” so you can best source the firearm that fits your needs. Assuming reliability standards are met, the three most-important aspects are capacity, compactness and logistics. It is ideal if you can avoid a reload in a gunfight, so having enough ammunition is what I’m talking about. I don’t much care what caliber you select—the caliber wars are over. What matters to me is how many rounds I can carry. For this reason, the 9 mm is king. You get optimal terminal performance combined with capacity, specifically a minimum of 10 rounds.


When you think concealment, you naturally think small or compact. There is a point of diminishing returns where too small is a poor choice. You have to find a good compromise to fit your needs. The micro-compact pistols are great, but they are not easy to shoot well. Two things to consider are reliability and accuracy. The smaller guns have smaller parts, that shouldn’t come as a surprise, but it can be challenging to foster robust operation as parts shrink. Accordingly, smaller parts can have shorter shelf lives and direct effects on the accuracy component. The micro-compact pistols can be difficult to shoot, not always fitting into our hands well or having more-pronounced recoil. In order to combat these issues, you will need to practice, which means more wear and tear on those smaller parts. While I love these micro-compacts and my belief is a small gun is better than no gun, I view these more as “gateway guns.”

As the newcomer practices, they become more aware, and their equipment choices evolve along the way. The last element to consider is logistics. There is an old saying, “amateurs argue tactics while professionals argue logistics.” The supporting-equipment industry for concealed carry is like any other industry and it is driven by profit. Manufacturers are not going to make custom items for less-popular firearms without significant investment, instead focusing their efforts on top sellers. They had to devote resources toward product development, materials, tooling, marketing and a host of other costs to ensure a return on their investment. The more-popular models will afford more available options and increase the chances of finding something fitting your needs.

 

Once you have settled on a primary-carry pistol, your next task is finding a safe holster. While some micro-compact pistols can fit in a pocket, I strongly suggest you always use a holster. The holster will accomplish several things. Starting with the administrative stuff, it will shield the firearm from unwanted foreign objects and debris—stuff like lint, loose items, body oils and perspiration to name a few. While it doesn’t seem like much, they can foul up the operation of your firearm, or worse, apply pressure to your unprotected trigger leading to a negligent discharge.

A holster will be many things, but these are the features it must have in order to be considered a good one. It must first retain the firearm. When properly inserted, the firearm should be secure, to the point where if you were to carefully turn it upside down (over something soft like a pillow) the firearm stays secure in the holster. Next, it must protect the trigger from unauthorized access. This can come in the form of many things, some of which were mentioned earlier. Loose clothing, the holster itself and other items (even your own fingers) should not be allowed access to the trigger while the gun is holstered. It must fit securely to the body. You obviously don’t want to lose the firearm/holster, but you also don’t want to draw and find your holster came along for the ride. Believe me, it happens more than you think. Lastly, you want to obtain a firing grip while still holstered. If parts of the holster or positioning make it difficult to properly grasp with a firm, firing grip, find something else. Under high stress if you start off with a poor grip it is not going to improve itself on the way to the target. Once you’ve selected a good holster, next is a good belt. You may even find you need multiple holsters for the same gun to cover different situations.

Remember to balance comfort with carry. For many new to concealed carry, it is awkward—and in some cases, uncomfortable. If you are not comfortable you will constantly be adjusting, tweaking or fidgeting. Either case, you are drawing attention to yourself, and the first rule of concealed carry is avoid doing just that. There are advantages and disadvantages to the various methods of carry; whether outside or inside the waistband. Inside will greatly reduce your profile, but some find it uncomfortable. Outside seems more comfortable to many, but not as concealed. Whatever your choice, you will need a rigid or sturdy belt to hold the weight of your gear. Like everything else we have discussed, there are features to look for and belts are no different. The most-important feature to consider is stiffness. Stiffer construction will mean avoiding belt sag. The outboard drooping will force the inside surface of the holster to contact your hip region. At first, it seems minor, but the longer you carry, the more pressure it applies to that point. It will get more uncomfortable and intensify pretty fast.

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While no one holster can cover all situations, look for sturdy construction from a recognized manufacturer. Whether Kydex or leather, inside- the-waistband or appendix-carry style, having gear that fully covers your trigger and rides comfortably on your belt will go a long way toward ensuring your pistol is always with you.


You have limited options for belt material, usually leather or nylon. While many love a good-looking leather belt, you have to be OK with it getting scuffed up—because it will. Nylon is versatile, but to get the stiffness there needs to be more than a single layer. Here’s where stitching comes into play, not only joining two (or more) pieces, but adding rigidity. Three- and five-row stitching are the most common, but other options include internal stiffeners. The buckle is the final piece to this puzzle. Your buckle should be low key, secure and adjustable if possible. If you change holster positions or live in a seasonal climate, having an adjustable belt will make life easier. Buckles come in all different sizes and shapes, keep it low key and follow your personal preference as long as it secures the belt.

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Having a stout, reinforced belt can make a world of difference when carrying a concealed handgun. Whether double-stitched leather or internally reinforced nylon, the belt should be sturdy enough to fully distribute your holstered pistol’s weight evenly, without twisting or bending.


While there are many subtleties in selecting your equipment, this is a great place to start. You will notice we introduced the top and bottom layers, but didn’t go into detail. It may seem overwhelming, but don’t be discouraged. Take each of the base layers one at time. Research and even try out your firearm. Select a good holster for comfort and conceal it well. Invest in a solid belt to keep it all secure. I will give you one final piece of advice. Don’t be married to your gear. Technology, designs and material are in a constant of flux. New products are being introduced frequently. Now, you have a method to measure how well they will work for you. Over the years, I have gone through countless holsters. My experience has led me to these simple considerations; which should help guide you on your new journey. Good luck.


About the author:
Jeff Gonzales serves as president of Trident Concepts and director of training for The Range at Austin. He served as a decorated and respected U.S. Navy SEAL, having participated in numerous combat operations throughout the world. His duties involved a wide variety of operational and instructional assignments on both coasts. Through Trident Concepts, Gonzales pioneered new advances in firearms and tactics instruction. His unique understanding of adult learning, detailed curriculum development and rigorous adherence to performance standards continue to set him apart from a crowded field.

Recently, Gonzales has increased his focus on concealed carry. Leveraging his experience operating in non-permissive environments all over the world, he has unique knowledge to share with members of law enforcement, the military and responsible armed citizens.

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5 Pistol Drills for Indoor Range Practice

by Chris Christian – Friday, April 20, 2018

5 Pistol Drills for Indoor Range Practice

 

The mere act of owning a handgun won’t make you a skilled self-defense shooter any more than owning a football will make you a Cam Newton, or a set of golf clubs a Tiger Woods. These objects are only tools—a means to an end, but not the end itself. It takes training to learn their proper use and, more importantly, regular practice to maintain those skills.

In a self-defense crisis, those critical skills can involve more than just pointing the gun and pulling the trigger.

Defensive-handgun skills include drawing from your concealed-carry position, delivering fast and accurate shots from a low-ready position, engaging an attacker(s) with multiple rounds, rapid reloads, shooting with the weak and strong hand, shooting on the move and delivering precision fire, to name a few. For those who have access to an open bay outdoor range, these varied skills are easily practiced. Unfortunately, not all gun owners enjoy that luxury.

In large urban areas, a commercial indoor range may be the only option. In northern climes, even those with expensive gun-club memberships can find winter weather makes their open bays unusable. Indoor practice becomes a fact of life and once you pay your rental fee, their gun-handling rules tend to be strict. Drawing from the holster, shooting while moving and “rapid fire” (generally considered to be faster than one round per second) may be prohibited. Violate these rules and you will be told to leave.

However, that doesn’t mean your practice time must consist only of slowly sending  rounds downrange. Your rental fee and ammunition budget can be better spent. There are important drills that can be practiced on a commercial range without violating the rules most ranges maintain.

Here are five that won’t get you ejected:

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The Low- Ready position allows you to assess a situation, but quickly engage a target if necessary.

1. Low-Ready Drill
Many self-defense incidents don’t start with a fast shot from the holster. In fact, in some cases the gun will already be in hand. This is well known by military and law enforcement trainers, and they teach low-ready drills. These are just as applicable to civilians.

The traditional low ready has the gun in a two-handed grip with the arms fully extended and pointed downward at a 45-degree angle. Raise the arms to the target to deliver a shot. Military/law enforcement trainers often modify this position to bring the elbows back toward the body about 8 inches, raise the gun a few inches and move the muzzle slightly to the shooter’s weak side (to the left for right-handed shooters). To fire, punch the gun to the target as though you are delivering a sharp, two-fisted punch.

The Guardian position is a two-handed retention position. With a two-handed grip, bring both elbows back to contact the sides, with the gun located just below the sternum and about 8 inches ahead of the body. Punch the gun to the target to shoot.

Set a full silhouette target 7 yards downrange and practice snapping the gun to it from each of these positions while delivering one quick shot to the center mass. This violates no range rules and you will find the low-ready position that’s most natural for you. If your handgun is a double-action/single-action (DA/SA) design, fire the first shot DA (since that is how the gun will initially be accessed) make the second shot SA, and back to DA to repeat. If your gun is a compact DA revolver, shoot it DA only. Cocking a revolver in a self-defense situation uses precious time. You don’t want to make that a habit. As your skills progress, the target distance can be increased.

You can spice this drill up by taping several 3×5-inch index cards to various places on the target and focus on one of them for the shot. Alternate between them to gain experience shifting between multiple target focus points.

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One-hand and weak-hand shooting should always be a part of your defensive handgun practice.

2. Weak- & Strong-Hand Drills
Modern pistol craft stresses a two-hand firing grip, which improves accuracy, speed and recoil control. But in a fluid self-defense situation, you can’t count on both hands being available. The ability to deliver accurate, close-range fire with the dominant (strong) or non-dominant (weak) hand is a valuable skill and easily practiced in a rental stall.

This drill is run in exactly the same manner as the Low-Ready drill, except the gun is fired with only the weak or strong hand. Try to run at least 10 drills with each hand.

Many shooters find their speed and recoil control improves if the shooting side foot is moved towards the target about 10 or 12 inches and the gun driven to the target with full arm extension; just like throwing a punch. In addition, many shooters who have a strongly dominant eye on their dominant arm side find that canting the gun about 45 degrees toward that eye when shooting with the weak hand helps them find the front sight faster.

Deliver the rounds from the same handgun starting condition as the low-ready drills.

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Smooth, fluid reloading is a skill that can be safely developed on the range.

3. Reloading Drills
The majority of self-defense shooting incidents are over after three or four rounds have been fired—but not all. Given the popularity of compact semi-automatics with a six- to nine-round capacity and small-framed DA revolvers with a five- or six-round capacity, the ability to automatically perform an emergency (empty gun) reload can be critical. That can easily be practiced in a rental stall. The key is to carry your reload where you normally carry it on your person—don’t lay it out on the table. This will ingrain the reload movements “for real” and not just be an “administrative” procedure.

The drill is simple with a semi-auto. Load a magazine with one round and position a full-capacity magazine where you normally carry your reload. Insert the one-round magazine, and from a low-ready position deliver one shot to come to slide lock. Eject the empty magazine and make the reload as rapidly as you can. When the reload is completed, immediately fire one more round. Be sure to note where that round hit.

The reason for firing a round immediately after the reload is to determine if your reloading procedure quickly brings you back to a proper firing grip—just as would be needed in real life if you had to make an emergency reload.

When ejecting the empty magazine, don’t worry about where it winds up. Get it out and gone quickly, just as you would in an emergency. It can be picked up later. One tip is to place a carpet swatch on the bench, which will help keep the spent magazine from bouncing off the shelf.

After the first drill, you will have a round in the chamber, so just remove the loaded magazine from the gun, put it back into your carry position, and re-insert an empty magazine into the gun to repeat the drill. It takes repetitions to ingrain a procedure. Do this drill at least 10 times on every range visit. You can also get realistic practice with the Reload With Retention or Tactical Reload, as explained in the October 2015 issue.

Revolver reloads require a different approach because the only way to truly duplicate an emergency reload is to have fired cases in all chambers, which definitely impedes their extraction. A simple way to do this is to combine it with the Low Ready Drill. Run that drill five (or six) times and then make the reload. As with the semi-automatic version, carry your reload where you normally carry it, and don’t worry about where the empty cases wind up. They can be picked up later if desired.

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Whether you use a speed strip (shown), speedloader or loose rounds, don’t neglect practicing wheelgun reloading.

The drawback to a swift reload with small-frame revolvers is that the ejector rod stroke is not of sufficient length to completely remove all rounds from the chambers. A gentle stroke with the thumb will leave some hanging out the end of the cylinder and require manually removing them. That slows the reload. The most positive technique for ejecting cases from a small-frame revolver is the Stress Fire Reload developed by Massad Ayoob.

When the decision to reload is made (for right-handers) the shooting hand thumb activates the cylinder release while the support (left hand) comes under the gun. The two middle fingers of the support hand push the cylinder open and follow it through to join with the thumb to hold the cylinder fully open, while the two outside fingers grasp the gun to give gun control to the support hand. The muzzle is then rotated straight up and the shooting hand comes over the top of the ejector rod to forcefully smack it downward to expel the fired cases. The support hand then rotates the muzzle down while the shooting hand inserts cartridges from a speed loader, stripper clip, or loose rounds. When loaded, the support hand thumb rolls the cylinder closed and the shooting grip is re-assumed with a round immediately fired (and impact point noted) to confirm the proper after reload grip.

Southpaws have revolver reloading problems due to the design of the gun. But if they practice shifting the gun to their right hand this reload will work well for lefties.

With either reload technique, don’t worry about breaking the one-round-per-second rule. Even the top competitive Grand Masters won’t break one second, but every reload drill you run will get you closer to doing it quickly and correctly when you need to.

4. Flashlight Drills
The proverbial “bump in the night” wakes you up. You grab a flashlight and handgun to investigate. Now, how do you make the gun and light function effectively together? Here are three proven techniques that can be easily practiced on an indoor range.

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(l. to r.) The Harries position does a good job of locking the hands together. Depending on the size and activation switch of the flashlight you are using, the Cup position may be suitable. While the High-Head position naturally illuminates the area you’re facing, it leaves the shooting hand unsupported.


The Harries position starts with the gun in the strong hand. The light is grasped in a closed fist/ice pick grip in the support hand and brought under the shooting hand to the outside of the gun, and then upwards to lock the back of the gun and support hands together.

The Cup position places the light slightly to the support-hand side of the gun. Grip the light in the support hand with the palm upward. A light with a forward-sliding switch is gripped between the thumb and forefinger. A tail cap switch light is slipped between the forefinger and index finger with the thumb on the switch. The remaining fingers fan out to provide a “cup” for the gun hand to rest on.

The High-Head position has the flashlight brought into contact with the upper side of the head on the support hand side, while the gun hand takes a strong-hand shooting position. This positions the light to move with the head and puts the light where the eyes are pointing. Spillover light also illuminates the sights; a plus for those without tritium night sights. The training drill for this is simple. Bring the target close enough that your light will visibly spill onto it. That distance will depend upon the power of your light and the ambient lighting on the range. If the target distance is very close, tape an index card or business card onto the target for a specific focus/aiming point.

Start with the gun in the strong hand, the light in the weak hand, bring them smoothly into one of these flashlight techniques, and deliver one shot. Then repeat. Try the different techniques. Become comfortable with them. It’s very difficult to do something well that you have never done before. Making these flashlight positions “second nature” will pay off if you ever experience that proverbial “bump in the night.”

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The Focus Drill requires intense concentration, the goal being to put all of your shots into one ragged hole.

5. Focus Drill
The above drills have centered upon speed and movement. But, the basic fundamentals of handgun shooting cannot be ignored. The Focus Drill stresses them, and is an excellent way to end a practice session.

The target is an 8×10 sheet of white copy paper with a small (1- to 1.5-inch) central aiming point. That can be a commercial target dot, half a business card taped onto the paper or just a small spray-paint circle. These can be made at home.

Set the target at 5 yards. With a deliberate, two-hand shooting stance—bringing the gun down between shots and taking your time to achieve accurate hits—the objective is to chew one ragged hole in the center of the aiming point. This stresses grip, sight picture and trigger control, the fundamentals that can’t be ignored.

If you leave the range with this, you can be sure your lane fee and ammo budget will have been well spent.

 
 

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